Jerome Dehoux has been waving the tricolor here since 2007, & Bedfordshire’s Francophiles have developed a great affection for this rustic, family-run place, proclaiming it ‘the best restaurant in the area’. The menu is pitched perfectly for the local crowds: mille-feuille of crab meat seasoned with coriander & scallions or terrine of pork belly with smoked ham & red onion marmalade to start, then grilled calf’s liver with bacon, onions & vintage Bordeaux wine jus, plus tarte tatin & caramel ice-cream to finish.