A fixture of the Harrogate scene since 1971, this charmingly old-fashioned seafood stalwart recently acquired new owners in the shape of the Carter family, who also run the reputable Sportsman's Arms in Wath-in-Lidderdale. Otherwise, nothing has changed and the place continues on its merry way, without a shred of pomposity or affectation. Spread over two floors, it comprises a handsome Victorian bar/eating area at street level plus a more formal upstairs restaurant – although fish from the Yorkshire ports is emphatically the name of the game throughout. The menu is packed with variety, from home-cured gravadlax, moules marinière and seared scallops with parsnip purée to the famous Drum fish pie, lobsters in all their glory or Nidderdale trout with brown butter and capers. Warm goats’ cheese salad is about the only concession to non-fish eaters, and service is by the book.