Its famous Chelsea namesake is long gone, but this younger sibling soldiers on within the lush confines of the Compleat Angler in Buckinghamshire. The setting is gorgeous – an elegant room in a pretty hotel by the banks of the Thames, with the river cascading over Marlow weir past leaded windows. The cooking is spot on, too – finely wrought and beautifully presented French food backed up by a wonderful wine list, an enticing cheese trolley and smooth, seamless service. Recent hits have included a deeply satisfying starter of lobster tortellini with courgettes and a slick of lobster butter sauce, and a dish of aged beef fillet and ox cheek – cooked to perfection and complemented by truffle and foie gras cromesquis, spinach purée and Madeira jus. After that, finish in classic style with a textbook blueberry soufflé and banana ice cream.