This Marlow offshoot of Aubergine shares a great deal in common with the Chelsea original – finely wrought & beautifully presented French food, a wonderful wine list & an enticing cheese trolley, plus smooth, seamless service. The difference is in the gorgeous setting – an elegant little room in a pretty hotel sitting by the banks of the Thames, with the river cascading over Marlow weir past the leaded windows. The cooking is spot on: pert tortellini of lobster crowned with shavings of autumn truffle proved a deeply satisfying way to start the meal. To follow, an assiette of veal saw sweetbreads, roasted rump & pan-fried fillet cooked to perfection & complemented by earthy caramelised onion purée & a casserole of ceps & bacon, while a textbook pear tarte tatin provided a classic finish.