The Crown at Celtic Manor

This offshoot of the Crown at Whitebrook has brought sophisticated, modish dining to the Celtic Manor Resort. While parts of the hotel shout money, the Crown’s interior whispers class & luxury – think polished floors, modern chandeliers & fine art on white walls. Whitebrook’s executive chef James Sommerin also oversees the kitchen here & his approach is similar in both venues: ingredients are top notch & trendy touches abound, but he never forgets the fundamentals. Meals come with plenty of extra flourishes, while an undercurrent of classic comfort runs through dishes such as a warm terrine of Jerusalem artichokes & truffle with nutmeg gel or Welsh beef sirloin with braised feather blade, carrot & cumin purée, pearl barley & bone-marrow jus. Service is assured & charming. Wines have not been neglected, with an impressive selection by the glass or bottle.