There’s nothing understated about the imposing Celtic Manor Resort – save perhaps for Terry M, its fine-dining restaurant. Soft lighting, clean lines and well-spaced tables create a classy, subtly stylish backdrop, and Tim McDougall’s cooking brings together some of the best Welsh ingredients in dishes that are rooted in the classics while gently pushing the boundaries. A starter of native lobster bisque with homemade black pudding and salted kohlrabi is a velvety blend of land and sea, while a main course of Welsh venison with liquorice is perfectly seasoned, with braised cabbage and fondant potato providing the perfect foil for its full-blooded richness. The same sense of balance shows in desserts such as vanilla-poached pear with rich chocolate sorbet and saffron frangipane. The wine list is full of interest and the sommelier’s advice is spot on.