Leaving London to take over a restaurant in the centre of Horsham takes guts, but young star Tristan Mason (ex-Orrery), has pitched his new venture perfectly for the well-heeled local crowd. A 600-year-old beamed ceiling dominates the first-floor dining room, while friendly prices ensure that the place remains approachable. Mason has upped his game, & hits the high notes with his ingeniously inventive cooking. Natural flavours shine through in a starter of fresh crab with pink grapefruit & ribbons of cucumber, & in velvety rump of beef with green beans, hazelnuts & sticky bordelaise sauce – both from a spot-on lunch. Desserts, such as a brilliant passion fruit souffle with raspberry granita, maintain the momentum. The big guns – cured foie gras with beetroot & pain d’epice followed by best end & neck of lamb with white beans & lavender – come out for dinner, when customers make the most of the admirable wine list.