Leaving London to take over a restaurant in Horsham takes guts, but Michelin-starred Tristan Mason (ex-Orrery), has pitched his first solo venture perfectly for the well-heeled local crowd. A 600-year-old beamed ceiling dominates the first-floor dining room, while friendly prices ensure that the place remains approachable. Mason has upped his game, and hits the high notes with his ingeniously inventive cooking and “brilliantly imaginative dishes”. Natural flavours shine through in lively lunch plates, although the kitchen brings out the big guns for dinner, when customers also make the most of the admirable wine list. Scallops with crab and tomato vierge might precede turbot with leeks, sea herbs and mussels or duck magret with artichokes and wild fennel, while desserts have included a brilliant raspberry soufflé with almond and apricot granita. Breakfast and some lighter ideas are also available on the ‘café bar’ menu.