The Vyse Room at Stoke Place

Stoke Place strikes a chord with those looking for an all mod-cons, 21st-century boutique getaway. Likewise, the new Vyse Room (named after one of the original owners) eschews old-fashioned trappings in favour of relaxed, stripped-back decor. Given the surroundings, it's no surprise that the kitchen takes inspiration from the English garden: nibble on a ‘salmagundi’ of raw vegetables while sipping a quirky gooseberry & lemon thyme bellini, say. There’s no doubting the impeccable sourcing, but some dishes were let down by weak sauces. A pleasing starter of soused mackerel lacked the promised bite of horseradish, while the main-course ‘hotch potch’ (lamb & vegetable stew) combined mouthwateringly tender meat with an under-seasoned broth. However, proceedings end on a high note with the triumphant signature dessert: a proper blancmange, made the old-fashioned way. Factor in friendly staff & a wine list that offers upmarket favourites from all over, & there are reasons aplenty to visit.