Perched high above the seaside town of Lyme Regis in Mark Hix’s native Dorset, this is a simple-but-chic venue with stripped floors, undressed tables & spectacular views of the Cobb & the Jurassic Coast. Blessedly uncomplicated fish dishes are the stars here. Two starters on toast (crab, red mullet) have impressed, likewise succulent skate wing with a scattering of shrimps & capers. There are also nostalgic echoes of the nursery in pollock ‘fish fingers’ with mushy peas & chips as well as desserts such as buttermilk drop scones with cherries & honeycomb ice cream. West Country ingredients abound: Fowey mussels with Burrow Hill cider, Lulworth Cove scallops with black pudding & girolles, for example. Non-fish eaters, however, have to be content with goats’ cheese salad & roast chicken. Whites make up the bulk of the short, interesting wine list; otherwise explore the fascinating beers, ciders & perry.