Having run the estimable fitz(Henry) in Leith & the ambitious Rogue on Morrison Street, restaurateur Dave Ramsden has finally found his groove. Located on the first floor of a New Town premises, The Dogs is a far simpler proposition than his previous establishments: old-style British cooking with the majority of starters & puds under a fiver, most mains less than a tenner & the vast majority of wines below £20. Tables are squeezed dangerously together, while the most obvious design concession is a massive picture of a dog’s head behind the bar; when full, the decibel levels rise. Most people seem content with straightforward dishes such as lamb rissoles with garlic mayo or chicken liver pâté to start, spiced honey-glazed pork belly or braised rabbit with bacon & cider as a main, then jam sponge pudding with ice cream for afters. It’s cheap, cheerful & quietly hip – just don’t expect precision cuisine. Amore Dogs & The Seadogs are part of the same stable.