In addition to swanning it in the Camellia Restaurant, visitors to this lavishly refurbished Victorian mansion can also get up close and personal to the culinary action at the Michelin-starred Pass. This venue take the ‘chef’s table’ concept a stage further by putting a comfortable dining area right at the heart of the kitchen – with LCD screens beaming footage of the team going about their work. The effect is “inventive, amusing and more than a novelty”, notes one fan. Head chef Matt Gillan uses locally sourced produce for a series of “consistently imaginative” tasting menus full of surprises: clams with kiwi and radish; king oysters with cherry and blue cheese; lamb with leeks and walnut; scallops with rhubarb and chicken wing. Desserts also aim to thrill – from a combo of yuzu, sourdough and chocolate to a pairing of caramel with soy. Wine flights provide an enticing introduction to the wide-ranging list.