Carriages

This pretty market town, with its ancient castle & majestic river gorge, had hardly anywhere to eat until new owners breathed life into this wonky, whitewashed building on the high street. The refurb goes beyond decor. A fiver will buy you a plate of tapas from the bar: say, chicken, chorizo & chickpea stew, bacon & onion croquettes with aioli or chicken livers in sherry. There’s more ambition in the dining room but simple dishes are best: prawns in garlic butter, grilled sardines, country pate, followed by lamb cutlets on a crushed potato cake or calf’s liver with crisp pancetta & mashed potato. Desserts are a work in progress – go for chocolate fondue & fresh fruit.