We’ve always had great affection for the redoubtable Walnut Tree and applaud what Shaun Hill has brought to the party, winning back its Michelin star and regaining a loyal following – particularly among those who appreciate honest, intelligent food in no-frills surroundings. Cracking set lunches are a real bargain, while the “expertly balanced” carte could yield anything from quail with bacon, grapes and verjus or lobster with sweetcorn and girolles to skate with mustard and parsley sauce. To finish, look for “sinful” creations such as Hungarian cherry soup with honey ice cream or peach and blueberry summer pudding. The whole place resounds with chat and laughter, and the food definitely merits a special journey (cottage accommodation nearby is a bonus). “I could eat here every day for the rest of my natural life”, confessed one adoring fan.