It’s impossible not to feel impressed as you enter the dining room at Riviera. Heading up the oldest escalator in London, we are greeted by an open kitchen boasting rows of lobsters on ice and a towering wine vault filled with old and new world bottles. The triple-height ceiling is met by huge windows that flood the room with natural light, creating a spacious feel and offering unbeatable views of the bustling St James’s Street below. As the name suggests, Riviera is inspired by the effortless luxury of the Cote d’Azur, reflected in soft, neutral tones - from pale wooden flooring to patterned cushioned seating - and highlighted by flashes of lush green plants.
Upon being seated, we are introduced to our friendly waiter Andres who strikes the perfect balance of remaining nearby throughout the meal for any questions, without being overbearing. After nibbling on a crusty baguette slathered with homemade butter, we order a bottle of Beaujolais and get down to business.
Dinner takes us on an indulgent journey through southern France via a flurry of both classical and contemporary dishes. We start with a courgette flower stuffed with briny feta, which is deep fried to crisp perfection and served with a miniature courgette, ideal for mopping up the oozing filling. On the lighter side, we also tried a king crab and grapefruit salad tossed in a refreshing lemon vinaigrette. Main course featured a magnificent bowl of lobster spaghetti with soft chunks of tail meat and blistered cherry tomatoes. However, the star of the show is indisputably a generous portion of perfectly-cooked filet mignon, which is swimming in an umami black pepper sauce that is absolutely to die for. We finish with a classic creme brulee, a shallow dish of rich custard flecked with vanilla and served with fragrant lavender shortbread.
Needless to say, if you’re after a new spot for French fine dining in a stunning setting, be sure to add Riviera to the list.