Orangery & Kitchen at Sun Street Hotel

Boutique hotel Sun Street’s cosy restaurant offers some much-needed respite away from one of London’s busiest districts. Boasting stylish vintage charm and a menu of modern British classics, we can see it appealing to more than just the hotel’s residents - perhaps as a spot for a client lunch or special occasion.

The restaurant itself is nestled amongst a string of interconnecting rooms, from its snug cocktail bar to the light-filled Orangery, each of which boast their own distinctive style. Here, the traditional dining room offers plenty of retro appeal, contrasting old-school wood-panelled walls and studded leather booths with statement, art-deco light fixtures. Elsewhere, plush seating and large tables make it the sort of place one could easily while away a few hours with colleagues or friends.

The menu continues the retro-British theme with a concise selection of tried-and-tested dishes. A neat disc of rich, mayonnaise-dressed crab was topped with shavings of hard-boiled egg, divided expertly into yolk and white, and served with crisp Melba toasts and vinegary little gem. While our main course, a robust representation of meat, potato and veg, matched blushing medallions of lamb rump with a creamy layered potato gratin, swiss chard and a sweet jus - although we felt the lamb was a little tough for its £32 price tag. Desserts finished the meal on a high and we're confident that anything from the sweet selection would be delicious. Our favourite, though, was a still-warm, silky chocolate truffle tart, which elegantly balanced sweet and bitter notes, and was finished with a beautiful mirror glaze.

A relatively quiet service for a Wednesday evening meant the atmosphere was a little stagnant, although warm and chatty staff ensured we were well looked after. The area’s high-flying dining scene might make for stiff competition, but Sun Street’s welcoming restaurant is sure to promise an evening of generosity and comfort from start to finish.

Sun Street Hotel’s main restaurant is just one of many dining destinations hidden inside the building’s designer walls (see also the Orangery and bar area). Here, head chef Steve Engelfield looks after a menu of classic British dishes with a modern twist, following the seasons wherever he can to bring diners the best possible produce.

Steve began his career in Melbourne and has since worked at a cohort of well-known restaurants including the Caravan Group, Gridiron and the Art Yard Bar & Kitchen at Bankside Hotel. At Sun Street, Steve draws on his classical training to create a menu that revolves around British ingredients and flavours.

Highlights from the a la carte menu include popcorn shrimp with spicy mayonnaise, wild mushroom and leek tart with Stilton and chicory salad, as well as Black Angus beef short rib croquettes, all as smaller plates. 

Mains or large plates, include dishes such as crispy chicken rendang burger with kimchi, pickles and fries, alongside fish and chips and Cheswell Grange Aberdeen Angus rump steak. Meanwhile, those who like to dine feasting style are in luck with a selection of sharing boards including a seafood spread of potted smoked mackerel, smoked salmon roe, tempura tiger prawn, chive cream and grilled sourdough, with similar layouts for those who prefer meats, cheeses or mezze.

Interiors-wise, the Orangery is a unique space with its vaulted, sky-light ceiling and a brass-finished central feature which sees old-fashioned street lamps hang over diners, creating ambience and warmth. The Chesterfield banquette seating is a nice touch, too, all together offering historic nods to this contemporary space.

While the all-day dining menu is a sure-fire win, if you're looking for other ways to enjoy the space, you could also book yourself in for an afternoon tea or champagne brunch. The latter takes place on Saturdays and offers two or three course options, accompanied by flowing bubbles for a limited amount of time.