One08

A barely perceptible name change & a move towards more Mediterranean-style dishes has added little to a hotel dining room that will always struggle against its more distinctive local competition. Nevertheless, One08 remains roomy & pleasant, with a stylish bar, squishy armchairs & a streamlined red-&-wood dining room overlooking Marylebone Lane. Staff seem more positive & interested than some feedback suggests, & can be seen ferrying small dishes such as rich Cornish crab with prawn & avocado or smoked salmon with all the trimmings. After that, there are plates of pasta, risottos & international salads, plus top-notch steaks (from The Ginger Pig) or sea bass with punchy tomato & caper sauce. In all, One08 promises reasonable food at decent prices, which is not to be taken for granted in these parts.