For a mini-chain with a strong reputation for upmarket Chinese food in premier spots such as Baker Street, Bayswater & Canary Wharf, surprisingly little fanfare surrounds this branch of Royal China. The frontage might seem humdrum, but step inside & things get suitably regal. Glossy, gold-panelled walls adorned with Chinese art point up the black-lacquered theme that runs through the polished interior. A vast menu covers pretty much everything you’d hope for, & does so with some finesse – from steamed scallop dumplings, fried roast-pork puffs, yam paste with dried meat or other highly rated daytime dim sum to a signature dish of ‘empress chicken’ with ginger & spring onion sauce. A lengthy wine list offers good choices at most price points, & the timber-framed patio is a bonus.
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