For a kebab joint in Hackney ‘off the beaten track’, an awful lot of people are crowding through Mangal 1’s door. Why? Either because it serves the ‘best damned Turkish grills in London’ or simply because this ‘overrated’ spot is ‘considered trendy’. Either way, it’s oversubscribed, so don’t go expecting ‘bend-over-backward customer service’. The mixed grill – a splendid platter of chicken wings, lamb kebabs, chops & quail ‘bursting with smoky flavour’ – is the talking point here, although the ordinary-sounding sides or starters of hoummos, tomato salad & smoky aubergine salad are anything but, too. Bring your own alcohol, as there’s no licence. Seating is close to the charcoal grill, so you may smell ‘a bit barbecuey when you leave’. Catch a whiff of chargrilled lamb on locals’ vintage snoods, & you know where they’ve been.
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