Former head chef Jun Tanaka has now left the building (for good), which may explain why tumbleweed could blow through the airy bar of Pearl’s neoclassical marbled pile almost unnoticed – at least when we dropped in. The upside is that this toffee and cream-toned bolthole is still a banker for a decent drink, and you won’t have to worry about straining to catch your companion’s conversation (unlike some louder cocktail joints). Sip lemon breeze (Beefeater, limoncello and Champagne), pisco sour, mint kiwi caipirinha and twisted strawberry (vodka, chocolate liqueur, lemonade and lemon juice) or take the oenophile route to lubrication: the restaurant’s Cruvinet system offers 40 fine wines such as top Tokaji and patrician claret by the glass (2003 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, for example). Casual snackers currently fare less well; adding some substantial bar bites might encourage more bums on seats.
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