This cavernous, sandblasted rocker starts the day quite quietly as a breakfast and brunch destination serving up posh bacon butties, porridge and French toast to Smithfield early birds. By lunch it has moved on to sarnies, soups and stews, but come evening it morphs into an unruly after-work drinking hole, where DJs can sometimes be seen rattling the steel air ducts that hang from the ceiling of this high-octane venue. Alcoholic fuel comes from a smattering of wines, around 70 whiskies and various bottled beers from around the world, but it’s the seductive selection of cocktails that does most damage: try perfidious Albion with Hendrick’s gin, Kamm & Sons ginseng spirit and homemade lemon cordial. Food for the rowdy masses is limited to fashionable ‘light bites’ – beef sliders, salt-cod fritters, char-sui buns, Vietnamese spring rolls etc.
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