The Dining Room at Dukes

Hidden within Dukes Hotel, this discreet restaurant is a restrained contrast to some of the high-profile venues around St James’s. It’s elegantly decked out with soft furnishings, proper napery & walls covered in mismatched pictures, while the old-school menu pays further homage to a bygone era. Well-cooked, unfussy British dishes include a toothsome starter of quail’s breast offset perfectly with sweet beetroot chunks. To follow, a nicely timed haddock with poached egg was let down by bland bubble & squeak, but old-school puds such as deliciously boozy sherry trifle are guaranteed to finish the meal on a high note. The compact wine list includes a handful of quality options by the glass, while service is warm & polished. Don’t forget to visit the ground-floor bar (see separate review) to try the legendary martinis.