Set in a bijou boutique hotel overlooking the Thames and Richmond Bridge, this restaurant comprises two sumptuous, romantic dining rooms and a lovely summertime balcony with ravishing views. The kitchen deals in clever, intricate cooking with lots of ingenious touches that may sometimes be over the heads of its affluent, conservative clientele – although the results are never dull. To begin, duck might be smoked, frozen, sliced and served with sautéed scallops, spiced duck sauce, pear purée and a homemade duck cracker, while halibut is roasted and served with samphire – plus broccoli purée, a grilled clam and a sauce infused with roasted garlic. Those wanting something simpler head for the silver-ceilinged bar, where salads and sandwiches are on offer, along with great cocktails. The wine list has plenty of interesting bottles for every budget, too.
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