Given such a ravishing vista – a verdant stretch of the Thames best experienced from the terrace – you might worry about complacency at this bijou restaurant & boutique hotel. Fear not: the
classy dining room is comfortable, & both food & service are exceptional; ‘a heart-warming experience’ is one verdict. Chef Shay Cooper’s star has risen steadily, & although his
intricate cooking isn’t to everyone’s taste, there’s no doubting his skill – a starter of organic salmon parodied Canadian breakfast, delivering sweetcorn pancake & maple syrup, alongside a
just-cooked fillet & roast foie gras: a beautifully harmonious dish. Slow-cooked beef cap steak to follow demanded work from the mandibles, but the accompanying sweetbread & roast
cauliflower compensated with their soft/crunchy combination. For a simpler meal, try the bar menu or afternoon tea.
WINE LIST: What the wine list at The Bingham lacks in character, it makes up for in drinkability. The closer you look, the more wines you want to try. Not the most compelling wine list in
London, but there’s plenty here to keep even snooty wine buffs entertained. BEST BUY WHITE 2007 Qupé, Marsanne, Santa Ynez Valley, California, USA, £44. BEST BUY RED 2007 Nittnaus,
Pinot Noir, Burgenland, Austria, £37.
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