Having flirted with a muddled menu that was more gastropub than trattoria, Bertorelli has gone back to basics, with regional Italian cooking. The aim is to win back punters who have been deserting this one-time London institution in their droves, complaining of ‘average’ food & ‘rude management’. In the few branches that still remain, the kitchens promise an enticing culinary romp around Italy – you could start your tour with Pugliese mozzarella, served simply with plum tomatoes & basil oil, ahead of Neapolitan clam pasta, a meaty Tuscan casserole of sausage & white beans, or breaded chicken in the classic Milanese style. Round it all off with a Sicilian mandarin sorbet, pistachio biscotti & fresh fruit, or a selection of native cheeses, washed down with grappa, limoncello, or something from the 40-strong Italian wine list.
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