Black & Blue King's Road

Has Black & Blue sold its soul? Once a stylish steakhouse group – relics of which can still be seen in its flagship Borough Market branch – it has expanded & gone down the well-trodden
chain restaurant path by introducing smart but predictable interiors & an uninspiring menu cynically aimed at maximising revenue. That said, it’s not without its strengths: portions are large & the atmosphere relaxed, making it a firm favourite for after-office drinking, casual dates & group dinners. Dishes promise luxury, and the main attraction – the steaks – deliver, but elsewhere, the ingredients disappoint. Foie gras comes in its cheap pâté form, asparagus is served woefully out of season, & béarnaise sauce lacks the punch of fresh tarragon. But head for the steaks or the cheap eats, such as a plump, juicy burger with hand-cut chips (not French fries, as the waitresses may protest), & you’ll be on safe ground.