On the face of it, New Fook Lam Moon, now nearly 30 years old, is just another Chinatown eatery complete with the obligatory lacquered ducks & ribs hanging in the window & a dreary, narrow frontage. The raft of colourful, laminated menus doesn’t bode well either; set meals at £11.50-18.50 & a £5 lunch offer little more than garish sweet & sour pork or beef in oyster sauce, while the main carte – running to hundreds of dishes – is almost off-puttingly long. Persevere, however, & you’ll discover a haul of exciting, well-made Chinese & Malaysian dishes. Bu ka ta, the euphemistically named ‘mixed meat’ soup in its rich shiitake broth is one such delight. Also worth exploring are the crab specialities, the belly pork, even the distinctly odd-sounding prawns with margarine. Staff can be a bit short, but they’ll warm to your enthusiasm.
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