Bangkok

Unpretentious, unshowy Bangkok has been knocking out sound renditions of mainstream Thai food for more than two decades & still draws a companionable crowd of fans from the neighbourhood – including Thai locals. The plain wooden tables, disposable yellow napkins & wicker chairs in the small dining room keep it straight-up & simple – the only concessions to looks-conscious South Ken are large prints of colourful Thai scenes hanging on the walls. In the open kitchen, a small team of toqued chefs serve up a reassuringly short menu that straddles tom yum soups, fishcakes, hot-&-sour salads, fragrant stir-fries, noodles & curries (including a fail-safe green version), which go admirably with a bottle or two of chilled Singha beer. The Thai waiters & waitresses are friendly, helpful, courteous & charmingly bashful.