The Mercer

A table for 15 in the City on a Friday lunchtime is a very tall order. Even with weeks of notice rather than a few hours, a request of this type is more than likely to be met with a quiet snigger. In an act of simple cowardice I delegated the role to someone else and observed from a distance, waited for this short telephone call to end. But there was a smile and a nod and we were on – lunch for 15 at The Mercer.

Not only were we offered the private dining room, there was to be no room charge, no abridged menu, no forms to fax back, questionnaires, threats of legal action or credit card guarantees. We were even called back an hour later to be offered the option of the table in the main restaurant as we may ‘enjoy the atmosphere’. By the time we arrived at 1.30pm lunch service was well under way, with just one long table at the back of the restaurant awaiting our occupation. Drinks were served (Chapel Down) and menus dispatched. There were big smiles all afternoon, particularly once the dishes arrived, this was faultless British cooking – no foam, no pretention, just big, bold flavoursome dishes that didn’t fail or falter once and were met with unanimous approval from a rather tough crowd.

Suddenly it was 5pm and despite there being no bar area, the staff offered to designate one in order that we could continue our extended lunch. I have rarely felt more welcome. However, we did sensibly decide to end on a high as we had already cleared their cellar of the Katnook Estate, which comes as highly recommended at the restaurant itself and represents similarly excellent value. Top marks x 15.

Just had a quick business breakfast here and was surprised at how good the food and service were. When it first opened, I had a quick browse of the A La Carte menu and was somewhat put off by the stodgy, almost boarding school-esque, content. Pies, steaks and proper puddings galore… a bit too blokey for me. But what a wonderful contrast breakfast was, the menu has a wide selection of breakfast items from smoothies, to cereals and cooked breakfasts. I went for the Pikelettes – which I absolutely adore, with a side of bacon. My client had a full English breakfast which he was very complimentary about.

It's tough finding good breakfast spots in the city when so much of the attention is focused on cheap bacon sarnies and Egg McEverythings! Long live the Mercer, a very splendid place to enjoy your breakfast!

I was delighted to be told I was heading back to the Mercer this week, so fond are the memories of previous visits; where over indulging in British classics has left me swollen both in stomach and also with pride, that traditional fare was making a real impact on the city restaurant scene. All was well, the menu still similar, packed to the brim with all those cockle warming ingredients; black pudding, colston bassett stilton, game, pork belly and the list goes on, almost exhaustively. The real trick at The Mercer is to negotiate the menu successfully, and not get too bogged down between the Mains, the Grill, the Daily Specials and the ‘extra’ Daily Specials so wide is the scope before you. On the plus side tho' none of the dishes I have had or those of my fellow diners have been duds, so clear evidence of strength in depth. My goat's cheese and beetroot salad was impeccably dressed, all ingredients tossed together as opposed to the dressing fly by that you can often be subject to, the goat's cheese was plentiful as was the beetroot, another plus when such ingredients sometimes play hide and seek with the salad of the salad. The arrival of my main course, the daily special (not the ‘extra special’) of Slow Braised Lamb with pearl barley in a fairly sizeable oval serving dish with accompanying spoon had me wondering whether I should have served myself onto the plate underneath, but no such suggestion was forthcoming so I was just went from the pot. Sweet and tender lamb combined with proper tasting vegetable and a good quantity of pearl barley but by no means was the pulse padding out the dish. A shared plate of cheese for the table rounded off proceedings and then having to dash out and leaving m'colleague to pick up the bill, surely this diner was leaving a happy camper and the ensuing review was heading for some straight eights or better. Two grumbles. Firstly, whose inspired decision was it to put the plate scraping / food waste receptacle at the reception area? which gives some lunchers and certainly coat collectors a peachy view of this unappealing activity. Secondly and this is not something restricted to the Mercer, ‘side dishes’ – although here they are relatively more fairly priced, the cost / reward ratio for a couple of scoops of mashed swede (possibly the cheapest vegetable by weight after the humble spud) is certainly strectched. I did have another moan under my napkin but am already aware of the Meldrew tones emmitting from the final furlongs of this script so I'll leave it on the basis it was more than likely a one-off. The Mercer is a classic and more times than not is a the top of it's game, lot's of great food appeal and the wine options covering many formats; glass, small carafe, large carafe , bottle and magnum are most welcome and more restaurants would do better to follow that lead. P.S To the table of four behind me; a Mercer is a trader; particularly in cloth / textiles. I did know but didn't want to show up the waiter who didn't. That would be too smarmy, even for me.

Genuine friendly and attentive service, very tasty food – would definitely go back and recommend!

We recently had the immense pleasure of dining here, and were blown away with the high quality of the food, wines and service. Having eaten at a Michelin star restaurant the previous week, we believe it was awarded to the wrong establishment, as the chef definitely needs to have lessons in making bouillabaisse. Absolute delight to eat at the Mercer.

Lunch, 12th January 2009

The Mercer is a smooth, professional restaurant – smart, without being stuffy – in an former bank hall on the Bishopsgate end of Threadneedle Street. Good venue for a swift (or not so swift) business lunches. A bit too formal and stark for a romantic meal a deux. It provides unpretentious British food presented in a simple, unfussy manner – similar to Magdalen but not quite as good.

I met two business associates for a swift start-of-the-year catch-up in The Mercer. Us two ladies sat on the charcoal banquette facing into the room, with our back to the bar, whilst our male companion sat opposite on a smart cream chair. Cream, black and charcoal are the predominant colours and the room is sedate and calm – as you might expect from a former banking hall. The large lower panes for the windows and the generous ceiling height helps prevent the room from feeling oppressive. The staff are attentive without being obtrusive and service is swift and professional. A kir, a red wine and a spicy tomato juice arrived almost as soon as they were requested. The tomato juice (my drink) had cucumber, ice and a stick in the stubby tumbler and hence was quite hard to drink, although the degree of spice was good. Delicious fresh bread was brought prior to the meal – sesame and fennel seed went down well and the rye wasn't too dry. For a starter I had the potted rabbit with a spicy rhubarb compote – the meat was bland and the rhubarb sharp but glutinous. A tad disappointing. However, my main course of artichoke and wild mushroom pie was delicious. crisp jerusalem artichoke complimenting well the ric, skokey mushroom in a rich sauce. Good, crisp pastry. My companions ate a crisp and well presented smoked chicken salad with watercress, soya beans and peas (one as a starter and the other as a main course) The remaining starter was thinly sliced smoked salmon presented with capers, salmon roe and dressing – hard to get wrong. The remaining dish was a leek and cheese pie which was clearly yummy!

The wine list provides a good selection of wines sold by the glass, as well as a wide range of bottles. Pricing is mixed – there are some reasonable choices but many, especially the individual glasses, veer towards heady City prices. New World and Old World wines are both well represented (and there is even a section for British wines from Kent and Sussex).

I organised a work event at The Mercer last night and can say without a shadow of a doubt, it was the best venue I have ever used. The food was wonderful, the staff most helpful, without being intrusive, the wine list as long as your arm with carefully and lovingly selected wines from all over the world.
The ambience is that of an old city wine bar, and for a relatively new restaurant, it already has the charm and character of a well established venue. The high ceilings and wooden flooring creates a warm, cosy elegant atmosphere.
All my guests had a wonderful time and I will definitely be booking the Mercer for any more parties for events I organise.
Highly recommended.