The Knaypa

Knaypa means ‘pub’ in Polish, but while this Hammersmith newcomer’s dark wood basement may look pubby, the ground floor is a much more polished affair of red leather chairs, smoky mirrors & black tables. The food, too, is a mix of classic & contemporary. Complimentary smalec, a tasty Polish-style pork rillette, may be followed by starters of simply served herring or a warming soured rye-flour soup with garlic sausage, quails’ eggs & ceps, served in hollowed-out bread. Mains include traditional rich goulash with rosti-style potato pancakes, & homemade veal, wild mushroom & cheese dumplings, as well as king prawns in garlic butter with braised fennel & basmati rice. With many mains under £10, it’s good value. Puds of baked cheesecake & mashed apple tart are best shared given the heavy nature of the food, though you could always round off with a shot of smooth cherry vodka instead. With Polish beer on tap, a small but reasonably priced wine list (Barolo at £26) & very friendly service, Knaypa has all the markings of a local favourite.