With Gordon Ramsay no longer in its kitchen, so to speak, this magnificent high-Victorian Maida Vale landmark has gone back to the business of being a neighbourhood pub shorn of ideas above its station. Faucet Inns, who now operate The Warrington as part of an eclectic portfolio, offer a brasserie-style menu whose mainstays might typically include soup or pie of the day, fish crumble, vegetarian risotto, roast pork belly and sage mash (£13.95), burgers, steaks and calorific desserts of the sticky toffee pud/cheesecake persuasion. Snacks in the ravishing Grade II-listed, street-level bar – all mosaic, marble and art nouveau loveliness – include homemade fish fingers, salt beef sandwiches and salt-and-pepper squid. There were a couple of real ales on tap when we visited, plus a useful wine list, basic cocktails and reasonably cheerful staff – despite mutterings from some quarters about grumpiness and lack of attention to detail.
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