Market

Opened in early 2008, this savvily named Camden eatery proudly signed up to the prevailing trend for no-frills British food. It’s on a small, cosy site with blasted brick walls, zinc-topped tables & an open kitchen. Staff are well briefed on the comfort-food menu, & the kitchen is generally on the money. A rich, smooth chicken liver parfait arrived in a dinky Kilner jar alongside spiced plum chutney, while a main course of chicken & ham pie featured a buttery pastry crust & a creamy filling of leeks, salty ham & chunky pieces of chicken. To finish, jam pudding delivered fine sponge with a dousing of light custard. The short global wine list, like the menu, is fairly priced. In all, Market is somewhere that should raise Camden’s under-performing gastronomic game.