Market

This cracking neighbourhood restaurant sets out its stall as a purveyor of ‘fantastic modern comfort food’ with a British accent. Seasonal produce rules on the great-value menu, which might open with a capably executed starter of ham hock with green beans, poached egg & crackling, or a meaty, flavour-packed salad of chicken livers, coppa sausage & black pudding. Chicken & ham pie in a flaky crust keeps the home flag flying, while whole lemon sole with cockles & superb chips does justice to Britain’s maritime harvest. For afters, steamed jam sponge, & rhubarb fool & shortbread deliver a fulsome dose of nostalgia. The dinky room is cramped & utilitarian, but no one seems to mind – especially when you can buy two courses for a tenner at lunchtime. Sharp, clued-up staff also ensure that this is a really ‘happy place to eat’.