Dehesa’s Spanish/Italian hybrid fits the Soho bill perfectly, judging by excellent reports from readers looking to while away an evening over its ever-inventive small plates and by-the-glass wines. The brooding interior mixes inky walls, warm copper lighting and hanging hams to stylish effect, with cosy booths and high wooden tables tightly squeezed into the space around the bar. Regional flavours rule on the menu, with Tuscan pecorino, shaved wind-dried tuna and jamon ibérico lining up alongside stuffed courgette flowers, beetroot and taleggio gratin, char-grilled octopus with gremolata and chickpeas or orecchiette flecked with slivers of asparagus and white truffle. To finish, the warm almond and clementine cake comes highly recommended. Energetic staff are kind and helpful, while thoughtfully chosen, ‘reasonably priced’ Spanish and Italian regional wines increase the pulling power of this Soho favourite.
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