Many believe the Martin Brothers will have a job besting The Prince Arthur with any new ventures. The design here is restrained. Yes, you’ll encounter a few swish lamps & some on-trend taxidermy dotted about, but otherwise the interior remains resolutely pubby with its racing-green stools & leaded windows. In contrast, the kitchen is definitely from the gastropub school. Essex hock croquettes with grain-mustard gribiche, a kilo pot of Scottish mussels with hand-cut chips, & pineapple tarte Tatin leap out from a menu supplemented by on-the-button seasonal specials such as, in springtime, white asparagus, wild garlic & St George mushrooms on toast. Here’s a bargain: two courses & a glass of house wine for £16 from Monday to Wednesday evenings. A monthly guest ale keeps the taps interesting, but the wine list seems a mite dull in comparison to the food.
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