The Prince Arthur

After the Empress of India, Tom & Ed Martin have followed up with their second Hackney makeover in a year, located on a civilised residential street within striking distance of London Fields. It’s less smart gastropub this time, more classic local with traditional grub, a cosy, intimately lit interior with lots of polished wood, deep-buttoned green-leather banquettes & original Victorian features. The good-value, seasonal menu of British classics treats honest ingredients with care & refinement. A starter of rabbit loin & braised oxtail terrine with caramelised pear was nicely dense & gamey, while a main course of roast pork belly with caramelised parsnip & sprout tops had joyful crackling. The £4.50 desserts include a deep-fried jam sandwich with plum chutney & Carnation milk ice-cream – a real guilty pleasure. Add to that a well-balanced wine list arranged by grape type & pleasant, friendly & informed staff & it’s pretty hard not to like this place.