Whether it’s for breakfast, a chic lunch date, a Brief Encounter send-off or a private party in the luxe Besserat Lounge, the refurbished art deco-style Champagne bar at St Pancras has fizz for every occasion. Push-button boxes fitted to each upholstered booth mean that you can summon staff to top you up with anything from budget bubbles (Besserat Grande Tradition) to a mighty Nebuchadnezzar of Taittinger Réserve at £1500. The list has an impressive choice of big marques, smaller French growers and Brit-bubbles, but you won’t go wrong with a bottle of Ruinart Brut NV at £85. Tasting flights of four (Pommery) flutettes are fun, and the menu is well-presented: smoked salmon and scrambled eggs; wild mushrooms on toast; seafood platters; appealing salads; Stilton burger and chips; afternoon tea (£22), strawberries and cream, puds, tarts and cheeses. Are you sure you still want to leave for Paris?
With 29 houses, from André Jacquart to Veuve, half-a-dozen older, rarer vintages and a handful of larger formats (complete with helpful explanations) this is a solid, clear, user-friendly example of how to put together an engaging Champagne list. The prices are fair, too.
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