Four years after its high-profile launch, Rowley Leigh’s ocean-going liner of a restaurant is still cresting the waves, & its ‘truly special’ art deco-inspired interior looks as gleaming as the
day it opened. The vast daily menu can seem pretty overwhelming, but it’s hard not to be tempted by the gorgeous hors d’oeuvres – not-so-mini portions of salt-cod brandade, jambon persillé &
the signature parmesan custard & anchovy toast (a dish that fans would cross London for). Starters & mains continue the Gallic theme – foie-gras terrine, fish soup, rabbit fricassee –
although the kitchen also makes occasional forays into the perfumed world of Thai green curry and its like. Best of all are succulent rotisserie specials including veal chateaubriand with girolles
or chicken with tarragon, cooked over an open flame in full view of customers. Alternatively, you can bag a stool in the all-day oyster bar/café if you fancy slurping some bivalves or nibbling an
omelette.
WINE LIST: A well-thought-out selection, in which French & Italian wines feature prominently. The list manages to be descriptive while steering clear of any unnecessary detail. The wines
of the week – those which ‘are currently drinking exceptionally well’ – are also a nice touch, offered by the glass & at a reduced price. BEST BUY WHITE 2010 Loimer, Lenz Riesling,
Kamptal, Austria, £30.50. BEST BUY RED 2007 Tenuta Riseccoli, Rinascita, Tuscany, Italy, £28.
At the end of 2007, Rowley Leigh, founder & head chef of Notting Hill's landmark restaurant Kensington Place for 20 years, took his seasonal European cuisine to the Whiteley's shopping centre. There, he set up Le Café Anglais with former financial journalist Charlie McVeigh - the brains behind Woody's, the Bush Bar & The Draft House. With an interior in keeping with the grandeur of William Whiteley's original department store, the restaurant was immediately popular with the dining public, & won both Best Newcomer & London Restaurant of the Year at the London Restaurant Awards 2008. Leigh continues in his role as cookery writer for the Financial Times.
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