Hereford Road ploughs a similar furrow to that bastion of nose-to-tail eating St John, which is hardly surprising given that chef Tom Pemberton used to head up the kitchen at St John’s Spitalfields sibling. As expected, the menu taps into the vogue for offal & neglected bits & bobs from the butcher’s block: lamb’s sweetbreads might come with pearl barley, while ham hock is served with pea shoots & chervil. Fish also gets a decent airing (slip soles with samphire & cucumber, say) & the emphasis on less glamorous ingredients keeps costs down – particularly at lunchtime, when the well-reported set menu clocks in at £15.50. Informed staff & a ‘very serviceable’ wine list have also received the thumbs up. Nab a ringside table opposite the cramped open kitchen – especially if you like the smell of freshly baked bread.
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