The uncompromisingly puritan ethos of this ingredients-led operation might feel more suited to the other side of town (chef Tom Pemberton honed his craft at St John Bread & Wine), but it has
found a niche following among the west London set too. A former butcher’s shop makes the perfect setting for Pemberton’s simple nose-to-tail food, though herbivores will also feel at home here. One
glance at the menu reveals its seasonal loyalties. Both roast red-legged partridge with braised Brussels sprouts, & squash with girolles & goats’ cheese, are shot through with autumnal
flavours. Fruity puddings such as poached pear with clove ice cream are equally assured. The sparse two-tiered dining room dispenses with tablecloths & superfluous decoration, the action
centring on the long open kitchen. Notting Hill’s new-found appetite for this style of cooking means that reservations are essential. Service, though, can be ‘patchy’.
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