European with Scandi influences, chef Agnar Sverrisson and sommelier Xavier Rousset's smart restaurant is at once utterly conventional – blandly opulent decor, lots of Champagne in a character-lite bar – and ‘marvellously inventive'. Fans note the lack of pretension and ‘great atmosphere' in the dining room, but also applaud the silky-smooth staff – including a ‘best-in-class' wine team working with a superbly balanced, global list. The ‘texture' in question arrives in the form of a taster of crisp fish skin, and is highlighted in a menu that moves from asparagus with Parmesan, hazelnuts and olives to lightly salted Icelandic cod with barley risotto, prawns and grapefruit. It's all luxurious, but cooked without butter or cream. Desserts such as chocolate ‘soil' with Gariguette strawberries, caramel, seaweed and nuts put an offbeat spin on the classic approach Sverrisson picked up in his previous gastronomic life at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons.
Texture’s list really stands out for its good value. Yes, there are one or two pricey bottles (this is Mayfair, after all), but generally the pricing is reasonable (Roederer at £75 or Taittinger for £85 is not bad for a Michelin-starred eatery in this neck of the woods). But as well as all the grandes marques, there is a genuinely stimulating range of small growers on display, too, plus a dozen rosés and half-a-dozen available in magnum. Plenty of information about how Champagne is made, too – this is a thoughtful and diverse Champagne list that is trying to provide bottles for all tastes and all wallets.
Travel to Texture in style with London's leading minicab firm Addison Lee.Get a quote »