(menu)

Texture

Address:	34 Portman Street W1H 7BY
Tel	020 7224 0028
Email:	info@texture-restaurant.co.uk
Website:	Visit Texture website
Price: £61.00	Wine: £22.00	Champagne: £45.00
Opening Hours:	Tues-Sat 12N-2.30pm 7-11pm

Square Meal review of Texture:

This Marble Arch newcomer is owned by a talented young duo straight out of Le Manoir aux’ Quat’Saisons, chef Agnar Sverrisson & sommelier Xavier Rousset. The high-ceilinged space is grand but subtle, with theatrical wedding-cake plasterwork tempered by neutrally hued fabrics. The cooking is as sophisticated as the setting, though execution doesn’t always live up to the kitchen’s ambition. A powerfully flavoured starter of Anjou pigeon accompanied by char-grilled sweetcorn & bacon popcorn sets the tone, both in its neat presentation & contrasting textures. Slow-cooked Lancashire suckling pig with baby cabbage, squid & soy bonito sauce also impressed. But, though it all looks beautiful, some dishes tasted muted: a main of black-leg chicken was underwhelming, its accompanying wasabi emulsion & soy dressing doing little to pep up the bland meat. Three courses at dinner cost £45, but lunchtime represents good value, with all dishes costing £8.50. The bar also gets a thumbs-up for its cocktails & extensive Champagne collection.

Wine List: Five excellent sparkling wines by the glass (including the iconic English Nyetimber) kick off a superb range of fizz. The main list runs to 37 pages & there’s not a duff bottle on it. Classic France dominates, but there are also other gems from around the world & a strong showing of sweet wine. Best Buy White 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Klein Constantia, Constantia, South Africa, £30. Best Buy Red 2004 Chateau Pesquie Les Terrasses, Cotes de Ventoux, Rhone Valley, France, £23.50.

Chef: Agnar Sverrisson

Agnar Sverrisson & sommelier Xavier Rousset opened Texture in late 2007, having met while they were working at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire. Originally from Iceland, Sverrisson worked at many Michelin-starred restaurants including London’s Petrus & Pied a Terre as well as Lea Linster’s Luxembourg mecca before joining Blanc’s team in 2002 where he rose to become head chef. Together with Rousset (a protege of the Hotel du Vin stable), Sverrisson has created a restaurant where food & wine are billed equally. The 60-seat restaurant & 30-seat Champagne bar offer tasting-style dishes in luxurious surroundings & early reviews seem to suggest they are onto a winning formula.