Angelus

With a paucity of gastronomic action around Lancaster Gate, it’s no wonder that readers heap praise upon Angelus. A ‘lovely French bistro in a converted pub’, it wins plaudits for its food (‘much more rarefied than the surroundings suggest’) & for wine-obsessed owner Thierry Tomasin – ‘a wonderful host’ who has instilled charm & passion into proceedings out front. The signature starter of foie gras crème brûlée is a gem, but Asian-tinged scallops with tiger prawn & ginger ravioli are equally refined. Bold main courses also impress: roast monkfish on saffron & shellfish linguine is gutsy & sea-fresh; roast duck stuffed with apricots & pistachio in peppercorn sauce successfully balances sweet, nutty & spicy tones. The room’s framed mirrors are fabulous, but there’s little elbow-room between tables; the other major downside is prices that have risen significantly of late. All in all, though, Angelus offers a dining experience that’s well ‘worth

Wine List: Naming your restaurant after a stellar St Emilion property & being the ex-sommelier of Le Gavroche raises expectations, & Thierry Tomasin doesn’t disappoint. This is a great list: Francocentric but with solid forays into Australia & Italy. There are prices to suit a variety of pockets, & a decent collection by the glass & half bottle. BEST BUY WHITE 2007 Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Vieilles Vignes Sec, Domaine Berthoumieu, South West, France, £33. BEST BUY RED 2004 Collioure Coume Pascole, Domaine de La Rectorie, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, £33.