Olivomare

It’s a case of style but not too much substance at Belgravia’s latest Italian, where the welcome rivals the stark white decor for coldness. So why is this place such a hit with locals? Perhaps it’s the fact that it does actually look quite funky (viz. a fish-patterned wall) while the menu is appealingly simple – not that you couldn’t make many of the dishes in your own kitchen, mind, & that might make you wince at the high prices. The food is a bit hit & miss: tuna carpaccio arrived fridge cold &, just like the otherwise excellent tagliolini with monkfish ragu that followed, had been squeezed with a bit too much lemon. Better was half a grilled lobster, which was perfectly cooked & delicately flavoured. Portions are small, so you’ll have plenty of space for pudding – try the delicious citrus cream.