‘Blindingly white’ from floor to ceiling, the modish interior of Olivomare is pointed up with strange jellyfish light fittings and a modernist fish mural that hints at the piscine delights on offer. Sardinians love seafood, and their favourite morsels are given the full treatment here: oysters, sea urchins, anchovies, crabs, monkfish et al appear in all manner of guises, from risottos and pastas to char-grills with bold Italian sauces. Starters of steamed clams, octopus salad or mackerel fried in semola with sweet-vinegar sauce could precede lobster spaghetti or char-grilled halibut with sweet pepper and anchovy sauce. A fine selection of island whites stands out on the exclusively Italian wine list, which also includes a smattering of local ‘stickies’ – try them with sebada (traditional Sardinian cheese fritters drizzled with honey). Part of Mauro Sanna’s ‘Olivo’ group.
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