This London outpost of the famous Nice hotspot is a Liz Hurley of a restaurant: celebrities love its chi-chi buzz, but ‘civilians’ tend to come away disappointed. ‘The whole place seems geared towards a large body of in-the-know regulars to the exclusion of those who aren’t’, complains one diner. The Provençal menu is designed for sharing – smaller plates of broad beans with olive oil & pecorino or sardines with grapes, tomatoes & capers, followed by larger portions of turbot with artichokes & chorizo or grilled lamb cutlets with smoked aubergine – but the results can be ‘boring’, ‘poorly presented’ & ‘pedestrian’. Ingredients aren’t always at their peak either, which is worrying for a kitchen that relies on simplicity. Factor in rigidly enforced two-hour time slots & eating here may seem like ‘an expensive non-event’.
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