Devilled kidneys on toast, shepherd’s pie & rice pudding with a splodge of jam? The menu at Canteen could be aimed at an Enid Blyton character on exeat. This austerity-chic restaurant group set the bar for old-fashioned English nosebag in designer surrounds but hasn’t, alas, been matching its own high standards. Poor service is a bugbear, as is poor value for money. Still, the promise of ‘part 1950s school dinners, part upmarket pub food’ feels right for the times, & the quirky offering of Twiglets, Scotch eggs & fish-finger sandwiches as well as daily pies, roasts & newer dishes such as pumpkin & goats’ curd tart with Anya potatoes suits its youthful audience. The ‘great British bar’ does Meantime on draught, plus a patriotic line in cider, perry & cocktails.
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