Rooburoo

Hidden behind a row of market stalls, this contemporary Indian may not be in the most salubrious location. But things inside look more favourable, beginning with an airy, wooden-floored cream interior enlivened by subtle Indian art & a casual menu of pan-Indian dishes boasting restrained spicing & fresh, clean flavours. Starters include a plump momo – steamed dumplings flash-fried with ginger & spring onion & stuffed with either asparagus or turkey. Tandoori items are all served with a healthy roast vegetable salad & weekly specials are first-rate: elaichi nariel gosht, a gorgeously aromatic south Indian lamb curry that’s slow-cooked & infused with coconut, fennel & cardamom, is exceptional. Sides, such as garlic mushrooms & bitter gourd crisps, are just as good, as are the imaginative homemade chutneys & pickles such as red lentil, beetroot & wild lemon. The limited wine list offers a fair choice by the glass, while service is efficient & welcoming.