The brick walls & steel girders of what was once the Victorian Friern Manor Dairy make a handsome frame for this large, airy pub with its agreeable nooks & crannies, Chesterfields & chandeliers. You can graze on Spanish meats & cheeses, or take a table for something more substantial. Starters are a ‘modern Euro by numbers’ selection (Parma ham & melon salad; pan-fried squid with chorizo, chickpeas & peppers), mains mean solid gastropub fare (cider-braised pork belly; sweet potato & chickpea tagine with couscous) & desserts range from fun to fancy (ice-cream sundae, pineapple carpaccio). The choice of ales is decent, & you can often find good wine among the short list of bin ends. There have been complaints that staff sometimes lack both speed & manners, but they were pleasant & professional on our visit.
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