The stylish modernist design of the Royal Festival Hall’s flagship restaurant – which even extends to kitsch staff uniforms – is a universal winner, as are the ‘gorgeous’ views across the Thames
from double-height windows. However, the large buzzy room (which is also home to the Bar & Grill) can get overly noisy & ‘ruin the attempts at sophistication’. Similarly, the kitchen
sometimes tries too hard, prompting reports of inconsistent cooking from readers. While a starter of creamed morels, perfectly al dente ziti pasta, celeriac, foie gras cream & lamb’s lettuce
proved a stunning combination, a main course of poached Anjou pigeon with pommes Anna, cinnamon baby turnips & Muscat jus merely crowded the palate with a cacophony of flavours. Desserts, such
as moreish crêpes Suzette flambéed at the table, are less fussy & all the better for it.
Chef: Helena Puolakka
Helena Puolakka took on the role of executive chef at Skylon, D&D London’s restaurant at the Royal Festival Hall, in spring 2007, moving from Harvey Nichols’ Fifth Floor restaurant in
Knightsbridge. Having moved to London from her native Finland she took on her first role as a commis chef at Aubergine
under Gordon Ramsay before joining sister restaurant L’Oranger. In 1996, she moved to La Tante Claire, working as sous
chef to its chef-patron Pierre Koffmann. A stint with Pierre Gagnaire at his three Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris followed, before she returned to La Tante Claire as head chef. In 2002 she
moved to neighbourhood restaurant Sonny’s in Barnes, before joining the Harvey Nichols group in 2005. At the Royal Festival Hall, she heads up a team of 30, split into two teams to serve the
fine-dining restaurant & the grill & bar.
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