Cooks who find themselves without books should take paper & pencil to Gary Rhodes’ London flagship: his recipes are written on the seats. The rest of the Kelly Hoppen-designed room, accessed through a separate entrance, is sheer, tactile luxury. Foodwise, those expecting trademark British reinventions may be disappointed, but the kitchen delivers a Franco-European menu with the silky-smooth touch you’d expect from a Rhodes’ lieutenant. At £49.50 for three courses, supplements seem superfluous, but who wouldn’t pay an extra £3 for potted foie-gras mousse with duck ham & red wine-poached figs? Elsewhere, slow-cooked skate with crisp pork belly & brown shrimps is a super-charged version of a bistro favourite, while those still yearning for Britain will find solace in pretty desserts embellished with parkin gel or ginger flapjack. Knowledgeable wine-matching is part of an impressive service package.
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