Great Queen Street attracts legions of fans with its proudly seasonal food and comfortable, low-key style. Friendly, informed staff serve up a brief, twice-daily menu that showcases carefully sourced native ingredients, with back-up from a top-notch list of craft beers and reasonably priced wines. Highlights might include a niftily dressed salad of warm razor clams, little gem lettuce and bacon and a judiciously seasoned faggot of Old Spot pork and Yorkshire veal sitting on creamy celeriac and apple mash, while tangy blackcurrant mousse cake may provide sufficient wow for a final flourish. Occasionally the kitchen slips up (overcooked roast partridge), but like its sibling the Anchor & Hope in Waterloo, sharing dishes such as seven-hour lamb shoulder are consistent winners. ‘Good wholesome British cooking in an unpretentious setting', concludes one reader, which is pretty well spot on.
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