Brumus

Early reports of poorly executed Italian cooking & an over-ambitious menu have been heeded at the new Haymarket Hotel & the menu has since been simplified to offer more straightforward brasserie-style dishes prepared to a more reliable standard. The rethink has clearly worked, with the buzz in the dining room now matching more closely that of the adjoining bar. Well-sourced ingredients shine through in a light & fresh starter of dressed crab served with toast while, to follow, a juicy entrecote fillet served with chunky chips & bearnaise sauce demonstrates the benefits of the back-to-basics approach. Round things off with a light & fruity lemon tart with raspberry sorbet & a glass of something sticky from the short selection of pudding wine. The fuchsia pink decor, complete with camp patterned wallpaper & parasol lampshades, may not be to all tastes, but it creates an inviting atmosphere, & the attentive staff are charm personified.