Housed in an easy-to-miss cottagey building, Dinings is a tiny bonsai bunker with huge appeal. The ‘squashed' basement surrounds can be a source of irritation for some visitors, but others reckon that's part of the charm. Loyalists are also prepared to tolerate its hard edges and brutal concrete for Japanese small plates that are ‘inventive, beautifully presented and super-fresh'. The ground-floor sushi bar is the extent of the kitchen, and it's miraculous that ‘sublime' Euro-accented dishes such as toro (fatty tuna) sashimi topped with foie-gras mousse, seared Wagyu beef with truffle salsa, or shabu-shabu of Iberian pork emerge at all. Vegetarians proclaim the grilled aubergine with sweet miso as revelatory, though anyone with their eye on the bottom line might think that the veggie offerings (and some other items) are overpriced – despite exceptionally beautiful presentation.
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