Upmarket pub chain Geronimo Inns have applied their instantly familiar, signature look to this corner boozer deep in Ed Miliband-land. What Champagne socialists can expect along with their bubbles (French from £40, Italian at £25) is a plush, comfortable take on nu-Victorian that would thrill the Interiors editor of a mid-market woman’s weekly. Choose from a decent range of draught ales and a wine list that has plenty of interest either side of £20 – Slovenian Pinot Blanc and Australian Barossa Valley rosé, for example. Lunch and dinner service favours a mix of hearty Anglo-Med ideas: roasted tomato mozzarella and thyme tart; sea bream and squid stew with polenta; wood pigeon with bacon, pearl barley and red wine jus, plus burgers, deep-fill sandwiches, puds and cheeses. A roaring open fire and a smart garden (with barbecue) are to be commended.
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