A Torre

The Antunes family has been running this Crystal Palace charmer since 2004. Out front, mother & father are joined by their son & daughter, while uncle Fernando is behind the stoves. Fresh fish dominates a menu that changes rarely, for fear of inciting rebellion among the many regulars. Grilled sardines, tuna & sea bass feature alongside cataplana (traditional seafood stew). Specials might include grilled octopus or crispy fried whitebait. Meat-eaters could choose steaks, spicy chicken, the classic pork & clams, or a monkfish cataplana beefed up with chorizo & cured ham. Furnishings are simple & tables tightly packed, but conviviality is enhanced by the inexpensive Portuguese wine list. Oldest son Hugo is due to take over in 2012 when his parents retire to Portugal, but don’t expect any drastic changes.