Any neighbourhood restaurant in Primrose Hill needs a bit of style to succeed, and La Collina fits the bill with gusto. There’s nothing overwrought about the place, the mood is mellow, and the food does the talking – although the ace up its sleeve is a terrace garden out back. The menu doesn’t spring too many surprises, but ingredients are sound and the kitchen knows how to bring out those Italian flavours. Shrimp and bottarga salad with tuna sauce and quails’ eggs is a lively opener, and if you get your seasonal timings right, you could sample the fungal delights of pappardelle with wild mushroom sauce and black truffles. There are grilled meats and Venetian-style risi e bisi (rice and peas) too, while dessert might bring Amaretto and plum cake. The wine list is Italian all the way.
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